An In-Depth Guide to Alocasia Care

Ahhh, Alocasias. So lush. So gorgeous.

And such, such divas.

If you’ve ever tried to care for Alocasias indoors, you may have realized that they seem to be a bit more…finicky…than most plants. Sometimes, it seems as if they will drop their leaves if you merely gave them the side-eye.

If you’ve had good luck caring for these plants and having them thrive outside of a greenhouse setting, congrats!

For the rest of us who need a little more help, I’ve compiled a guide on how to care for these exotic divas. Please note that these are general guidelines for Alocasias, and not a one-size-fits-all. Some species are less diva-ish than others, so observation is key!

Alocasias are in the Araceae family, like Monsteras and Philodendrons. Their leaves emerge from tuberous corms or rhizomes and can vary in size from the petite Alocasia “Tiny Dancer” to the magnificent, man-sized Alocasia “Borneo Giant.” Typically found in sub-tropical Asia and some rainforests of Eastern Australia, these stunners have been growing in popularity as houseplants due to their amazing foliage.

Soil

Any potting mix that you use for Alocasias should be well-draining with plenty of chunky bits like perlite, vermiculite and orchid bark. Use a good aroid mix; you may have to create your own like I do with this recipe. Alocasias also like to be rootbound, so don’t be too enthusiastic about repotting them into larger pots in the beginning. Increase the pot size by no more than 1-2 inches in diameter every 12-18 months. If your Alocasia never enters dormancy (i.e. it still retains some leaves throughout the year), only repot your plant during its active growing phase in late spring or summer; avoid repotting in winter as cooler temperatures can weaken your plant and slow its recovery.

Watering

The most common way to kill an Alocasia is probably by overwatering. Alocasias do not like “wet feet” and despise soggy soil. It can make them susceptible to root rot and fungal infections. A good watering technique would be to water when the top two inches of soil is dry. If you’re a truly exceptional plant parent, you can pick up the pot and determine if a watering is necessary based off of weight. Another option would be to use a plant watering spike. Filtered water or rainwater works best as minerals, salts and chlorine in municipal tap water can cause spotting on the leaves of your plants. Less water is needed during the winter when growth slows or the plants go dormant.

If watering your Alocasia gives you anxiety, you can also use a moisture meter to help determine how how much moisture is left in your soil and if a watering is due.

Fungal infections appear as dark brown or black spots on the leaves, surrounded by a yellowish rim. The best way to prevent disease is to avoid over-watering, keeping the leaves dry, and providing good air circulation around the plant. Once an Alocasia is infected, quickly remove the diseased leaves, isolate the plant from others, and treat with a fungicide.

A few observations that I have noticed: Yellowing around the edges of leaves may indicate overwatering. Yellow spots on leaves may indicate inconsistent watering or water impurities.

Light

As a plant that typically grows on the forest floor beneath the tree canopy, they do best in medium to bright indirect light. Direct sunlight will burn the leaves of your plant. While this would work as a general rule, do note that some Alocasia species can grow in full sunlight as long the humidity levels are extremely high. Do your research and ask your grower for more information.

If you notice that your plant is leaning or straining toward a light source, that is indicative of insufficient light. Move it closer to the light source if possible. You may need to supplement with artificial grow lights.

Humidity

As mentioned before, Alocasias generally require high humidity. 60% humidity may be best but some species can possibly go as low as 40%. Anything lower than that and your plant may suffer. Keep your Alocasia away from cold drafts, air conditioning, and central heating (or in other words, pretty much everything!)

Brown, crispy tips and edges probably indicates low humidity or over-fertilization.

I have heard that misting an Alocasia is not recommended as it may encourage plant diseases. I am uncertain about the validity of this statement, but I do know that misting by hand will only raise the humidity only briefly and generally does not make any large impact. To maintain a consistent humid environment, a humidifier may provide better results.

To measure the humidity in your home, a hygrometer is absolutely necessary. They are readily available and very affordable. If you want to keep indoor tropical plants, investing in one may be a good idea, especially for those who live in regions that require near-constant use of heaters or air-conditioning for most of the year.

Temperature

Alocasias are warm-growing plants, and prefer a temperature range between 65-85 degrees F (18 -20 degrees C). Temperatures at 60 degrees F (15 degrees C) and below may cause your plant to drop its leaves and enter dormancy.

Fertilizing

Alocasias can be heavy feeders, especially the extremely large specimens. They can benefit from a monthly feeding at regular strength (make sure to check the instructions on whatever commercial fertilizers you use), or a “weakly weekly” diluted feeding. However, it is generally unnecessary to constantly fertilize indoor houseplants. Too much fertilization in a potted plant can quickly cause a build-up of salts and minerals, which can be detrimental. I would recommend a slow-release fertilizer like Osmocote. No fertilizer is necessary during the winter months when plant growth naturally slows

Dormancy

Dry conditions and cold temperatures will force Alocasias to drop all of their leaves and go dormant until better conditions return. Don’t panic if your plant begins to drop its leaves. If you haven’t been keeping up with watering or the temperature has dropped in the plant’s environment, then it is reasonable to first assume that your plant is going into dormancy. One way to make certain that your Alocasia is alive but entering dormancy would be to stick your fingers into the soil and feel the tuberous rhizomes or corms. If they feel mushy, then your Alocasia has started to rot from overwatering, and it may be too late. However, if it feels quite firm and hard, it is likely fine.

Propagation

Alocasias grow from corms (they usually look like flattened bulbs but are not actually bulbs). The best way to propagate Alocasia is to separate the corms and plant them separately.

Toxicity

Alocasias are mildly toxic to pets and humans due to the calcium oxalates that they contain. Typically, ingestion will cause mouth and abdominal irritation, nausea and possible vomiting. Keep them out of reach of animals and children.

Extra Tips

Keep the leaves of your Alocasias nice and squeaky clean by inviting them to a pool party! (But don’t actually take them to the pool, that would not be good). All you have to do is take them to the bathroom and wash the leaves down in the shower. This will remove dust and grime and dislodge any pests. You can follow up the shower with a spray of warm soapy water every few weeks. This will help prevent pests from establishing themselves.

If you’re nervous about getting started with growing Alocasia, I would recommend first purchasing a cheaper, more common Alocasia species before shelling out more money for a rarer one. You can use this plant to hone your care techniques. If it doesn’t work out and ends up in Planty Heaven, then you won’t lose a bunch of money and a beloved rare plant. So take baby steps first!

New leaves originate from the stems of the most recent leaf. Pay attention when a new leaf comes out, as you do not want to overwater or underwater and cause that entire stem to die.

And most importantly, observe your plant often!

So, are you a recent Alocasia newbie or a seasoned Alocasia-growing veteran? If you consider yourself a successful indoor Alocasia grower and have methods that I have not covered, please share in the comments!

Always Keep Growing,

Heather (a.k.a. The Botanical Chick)

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